From Grass to Garden: How to Expand Your Garden Beds

Written By Lara Wadsworth

Taking the step to expand your garden is an exciting milestone. Turning a patch of grass into a vibrant garden bed enhances the aesthetic appeal of your yard and provides more room for growing flowers, vegetables, or herbs. There are many methods for making a new garden bed, and there’s something to fit everyone’s needs. Below is a quick introduction to all the most common methods.

Manual Removal

The most traditional and obvious method is to take a shovel and dig up the grass to expose the soil. This method is the most labor-intensive, especially if you are working with a large area. However, it is excellent if you want to create garden space quickly and don’t own a tiller. It can be all said and done in a day or less, depending on how much space you’re working with. The only tools you need are a shovel and maybe a wheelbarrow. It is also a good choice if you would like to dig up the turf and move it to fill in grass patches elsewhere in your yard. Moistening the soil can make digging up the grass easier! But don’t drench it too much, or you will be caked in mud by the end of the day.

I used this method partially when I was creating my new garden bed earlier this year, and boy, it was tough. Yet, I was able to salvage quite a bit of grass and fill in multiple dead patches throughout my yard. So, it was worth it. I used it partially because I got tired and used my rototiller for the rest. Depending on how compacted your soil was underneath the turf, you may need to break up the soil with a tiller or rake before planting your garden.

Rototiller

Using a tiller of some kind is easily the quickest method. This requires very little time, but you will need to own or rent a tiller. These can be purchased at many retailers and rented by the hours from places like Home Depot. If it is already mid to late spring, and you need a garden bed for the summer, use this method. The downside is that it can be quite harsh on the soil. It breaks up soil structure and mycorrhizae. Soil can recover from this, especially with compost incorporation, but it is harsh. If you use this method, search the ground and remove anything the rototiller might hit while in use.

Make sure to mark any irrigation lines, sprinkler systems, power lines, and anything else that might be in the ground that you want to avoid. Utility lines can be marked for FREE by contacting your 811 center. Simply dial 811 and request that the utility lines be marked for your property. This service is available in all 50 states. Be sure to plan a few days ahead as it can take a few days for your request to be processed. Consider your safety first. These machines are indiscriminate!

I used this method this spring after I had reserved any turf I wanted to save, and it went so fast! Another downside I noticed is that it tills the grass straight into the soil, and therefore, some grass survived and ended up becoming a weed I needed to pull. It was a small thing, but worth mentioning. It was also a bit hard to get straight lines. Rototillers are machines that need to be wielded, and you need core and upper body strength to make them work effectively.

Raised Beds

If you are handy with tools or are willing to invest a few dollars, raised beds are a convenient option for expanding your garden. You don’t need to do anything special to the grass! There are two different types of raised bed builds: ones that sit directly on the ground and ones that are elevated to about waist height. The ones sitting on the ground are easy because you just place the sides of the raised bed wherever you want them and then fill the shape with soil. This smothers the grass underneath and prevents it from growing. Smother the grass with at least 6 inches of material to kill it.

For the elevated raised beds, this usually means they have legs, like a table. These are so useful for people who have difficulty getting down on the ground to weed and plant. For these beds, you simply buy or build your raised bed and put it wherever you want! You can keep the grass underneath and trim it with a weed wacker or kill it (by any of the means listed in this blog), then cover the earth in mulch or gravel to suppress weeds and have easier maintenance throughout the season. This style can also be used over hard surfaces such as concrete or gravel.

Lasagna Gardening

Lasagna gardening, also known as sheet mulching or smothering, is an eco-friendly method that involves covering the grass with layers of organic material to deprive it of light and force it to decompose. To do this, you start by mapping out what area you want. Then, mow the grass you want to get rid of as short as possible. Then, lay down sheets of newspaper or cardboard to cover the area completely. Be sure to avoid any “shiny” cardboard or newspapers. Then, layer on about 6 inches of organic materials like compost, mulched leaves, grass clippings, and straw.

Plan to create it in advance to allow the grass and cardboard to break down for several months. You can add a large layer of topsoil on top of it all and plant immediately, but keep in mind that plants with deep root systems might be hindered from spreading their roots past the topsoil. Until the cardboard and grass layer decomposes, plant growth may also be hindered by various nutrients being “tied up” during the decomposition process.

This method is great for those who don’t have the means to remove the grass mechanically and have lots of organic matter to spare. It is also great for soil health and requires minimal effort to achieve a nutrient-rich garden bed ready for planting! I used this method last year to start a garden in my backyard, and it worked great! I put down all the layers early in the spring and then planted just a few weeks later. I would definitely use this method again. I especially like this approach in conjunction with a raised bed, as it keeps the layers contained nicely.

Herbicides

One of the most conventional methods is to use an herbicide to kill the grass. Choose a non-selective herbicide and follow all the manufacturer’s instructions and safety precautions, including personal protective equipment. This method is nice because you can spray the herbicide just a couple of weeks before planting time and then rake up the dead grass before preparing the soil for planting as usual.

The downside of this method is that herbicide use has been proven to be harmful to human, pollinator, and ecosystem health. Using it just once is not as bad as using it regularly, but it is still something to consider. Especially if you hope to achieve an organic garden, herbicide use would contradict those principles. However, recent studies have confirmed that herbicides don’t necessarily decrease soil microorganisms in all cases. Be sure to select herbicides that make sense and familiarize yourself with the proper handling instructions to avoid unintentional damage.

Solarization

Lastly, solarization is a simple method that requires time and should be completed in the summer before you want to plant. This method harnesses the sun’s energy to kill the grass over time. Map out what area of grass you want to kill, remove any debris, and lightly moisten the soil. Lay clear plastic over the area and secure the edges lightly. Leave the plastic in place during the hottest part of the year for at least 4-6 weeks. This essentially creates an intense greenhouse effect, making it too hot for the grass to survive and preventing it from performing respiration. It is also shown to kill certain soil pests, which is a bonus.

The downside is that it is harsh on the soil environment. However, it is believed that most beneficial soil microorganisms can survive solarization or quickly recolonize. Especially if you can amend the soil after solarization and before planting with high-quality compost. With proper planning soil health may not be an issue. The main reason someone would not want to use this method is that it can take 1-2 months to complete and isn’t always effective if done in cooler climates. It has to be hot for it to work.

General Tips for New Garden Plots

The following information applies anytime you are making a new garden bed: You always want to mark out the area of attack as well as possible. This ensures that exactly what you bargain for gets done, lines are straight, and no underground fixtures are harmed. Secondly, it is always a good idea to amend the garden bed with compost. Compost is high in organic matter and benefits plant health and growth. I suggest a keyhole shape if you’re unsure what shape to make a new garden bed. This shape is a circle with a pathway from the edge to the center. This shape ensures the highest efficiency of space, water, and materials. Whether you are trying to strategize your first-ever garden bed, or adding one to your collection, it is good to be aware of the options. Keep an eye out for upcoming blogs about soil health and specific amendments for the next step in creating your garden paradise.

Lara Wadsworth, True Leaf Market Writer

I am a native of Southwestern Michigan, where I also reside, and I love all things plants! I got a Bachelor's Degree in Horticulture and found the first work-from-home job I could get. Now, I spend my days writing for TLM, playing with my dog, eating delicious food with my husband, and plotting my next landscape or gardening move. I believe everyone should get down and dirty in the soil now and then. Happy Gardening!